| Written by Melanie |
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What to Look for Before Buying a Kitten! Bullet Point Check list (MORE IN DETAIL BELOW):
DETAILED VERSION: If you are thinking about getting a kitten there are a few pointers I can give you as to what to look for. First and foremost: When you purchase a kitten you must be aware that he or she will grow up. They are not going to stay a kitten for ever. You should purchase your kitten with the thought that you are likely to have this animal for 12, 13, 14 or more years. They are not a throw away toy. You can’t purchase a kitten and then get rid of it when it grows up. You MUST consider the long term financial and emotional impacts that come with owning an animal. There will be times when they inconvenience you. They will get sick right when you are busy at work and really shouldn’t be taking a day off to take them to the vet. You will have to organise a boarding facility or family/friend to care for him when you go on holidays and there are usually costs associated with that. There are obvious ongoing maintenance costs as well just for the basics. (Please see “Costs of Owning a cat” under the FAQ menu) They may, like children, develop some unwanted traits but most are treatable with a bit of time, patience and professional advice. They all have different PURRsonalities but that is what makes them a special part of your family. Please fully understand the LONG TERM RESPONSIBILITIES of pet ownership BEFORE YOU proceed. Be aware that pet shops are a great place for the spread of germs and disease and considering that kittens in pet shops are NOT fully vaccinated this can be risky, especially when they mix litters of kittens together. You can usually find the same breed on the internet or from a breeder at a cheaper price and in the case of Domestic Short Hair (DSH) or moggy kittens about $250/$300 (at the time of writing this article) for a kitten that is microchipped, vaccinated and desexed. To buy a kitten Desexed or Entire?: For more information on this please check out Buying and Entire Kitten v’s a Desexed Kitten and Desexing and Purrsonality. Before purchasing a kitten or even choosing one there are a few things to look out for. When buying a kitten from either a breeder or a Pet Shop ensure that they offer some kind of health guarantee. Even if it is only for a couple of days so that you have a chance to get the kitten checked out by a qualified vet and return the kitten if the vet thinks it is not healthy. NSW CFA Registered breeders MUST offer a minimum of 14 days health guarantee but ensure you have in writing the terms and conditions. If a Breeder is confident in the health of the kittens they selling they should be willing to put in writing that they will offer the vast Majority of the money back if a vet declares the kitten unfit for purchase within 14 days of purchase. There may be a minimal charge for a transfer of Paperwork and Microchip and for consumable items provided. Read any health guarantee carefully and ensure that all is in order before putting down your deposit. If the kitten hisses or backs up when you approach it this means that the kitten has likely not properly socialized and handled very much and chances are was not raised indoors. If there was a sudden loud noise or the kitten got frightened then the hissing can be excused for obvious reasons but the kitten would also soon resettle once the noise stopped or it recovered from the fright. Either wait a week or two and revisit that kitten or steer clear of that kitten. If you are buying from a breeder always ask to see where the kittens are raised and kept. If the breeder is hesitant to show you it is probably because the facilities are dirty, small and unsuitable. If the kitten cages are outside be wary! How much attention have these kittens had? Are they familiar with the typical noises of a home such as the telephone, T.V, doorbell, vacuum cleaner etc. Is the breeder aware of health problems if they are kept outside/down the back of the property or in a shed situation? If you are buying from a breeder consider how many litters and how many cats they have at any one time and if this is manageable??? If there are large numbers of adult breeding animals and numerous litters this would be too much for one person to manage on their own in most cases and assistance/Staff would be required. Do they breed numerous different breeds and have multiple litters all at once? FACT: The more cats and kittens they have at any one time the less attention your kitten is going to get and there is a much higher chance of disease and infection. In my personal opinion a breeder that breeds multiple breeds of cats and has multiple litters may not have the best interests of the kittens they produce at heart and could be considered a kitten factory or simply breeding for financial gain. How can you spend time with and properly care for 6, 7, 8 or more litters with an average of 5 kittens per litter, as well as 15, 16, 17+ adult cats??? There are not enough hours in a day for 2 people to look after this many cats. Feeding, changing litter trays, cleaning bowls, cleaning rooms/catteries/kitten pens etc, Checking their coats/body/gums etc and then just spending a little time giving them some love and attention is time consuming. Check the eyes, nose and mouth. If there is any yellow discharge from the eyes and/or if the nose is running or if the kitten is constantly sneezing and wheezing, the kitten could have Cat Flu. Are there ulcer like sores on the tongue? You don’t want to buy a sick cat so make sure the kitten has been treated and is healthy before purchase. Look in the ears any black or dark brown wax may indicate ear mites. A responsible pet shop or breeder should have dealt with this before showing a prospective buyer. Look at the kittens body. Check for fleas or any wounds. (Small wounds may be found on the neck of young kittens from the mother carrying her young, this is usually fine and no need for concern but check with your vet for clarification) If you do find fleas or suspicious wounds or lumps (possibly hernia if on stomach) these either need to be treated and fixed before purchase or at least discussed with a vet. Check the litter tray – A responsible breeder would make sure it was clean – (a sign that the kittens are well cared for). If there are signs of fresh faeces is it solid? Also check the kittens bottom. Is it clean? Or are there signs of diarrhoea? If so it may be worth coming back at a later stage and looking at the kitten/s when this has been treated. Or alternatively look elsewhere. Check that the breeder is Testing their Breeding cats – A responsible breeder would ensure they were breeding with genetically healthy animals. Breeders should be heart scanning all their breeding cats within a 24 month period with a specialist cardiologist and they should be able to show you the veterinary report that is dated, signed and stamped by the consulting specialist. In the case of Burmese a DNA test for HK is available and should be undertaken to ensure we are not producing HK positive kittens. It is important to determine that if a cat carries the HK gene that they are not mated with another cat that also carries the HK gene. To breed two HK caring cats together would result in the possibility of 1 in 4 HK positive kittens being produced. If the breeder is unaware if the cat are HK negative or HK carriers they are risking producing HK positive offspring. Breeders should also be doing blood tests for Aids and Leukaemia with all the breeding stock especially if they use outside stud cats or if outside queens come into their stud cats. Closed catteries are at less risk. Lineage Health: Breeders should NOT be doing matings with an inbreeding coefficient of above 25%. Responsible breeders will be aiming to maintain type, health and temperament with genetically diverse lines. Here at Suchi and Adora Burmese we will not do matings with an inbreeding coefficient of above 15%. If the breeder knows their lines well and has multiple generations of that same line they should be able to give you a good understanding of any health issues that seem to be presenting in that line. Eg Burmese are prone to Dental issues and Diabetes. If the breeder has owned multiple generations and has researched the cats that have come into their breeding program from other breeders the should have a good understanding of what they are working with. Keeping your kitten at a healthy weight is essential and good dental health can be maintained through an appropriate diet and oral care dry food in conjunction with using a tooth brush.
Finally – Don’t hesitate to talk to the breeders vet. Would their vet consider buying a kitten from them and recommend them. Ask their vet if the they are aware of significant history of cat flu, genetic conditions or is the vet aware of Significant occurrences of FIP? Has the vet done testing on their breeding cats and would the vet generally feel that the breeder is ethical and producing healthy and well socialised kittens? If the breeder is reluctant to provide the Vets details why?
Will the kitten chose me? Personally I strongly believe that Where and How a kitten is raised is the question the buyers should be asking. If they have had the time and effort put into them when they are little and have been handled regularly they are bound to be very affectionate and love your company regardless of which kitten you choose. This is what the Burmese breed is all about. If a kitten is raised in a cattery down the back of the property how much time is the breeder going to have spent with them? Are they the type of breeder that is just going to go in feed and change the litter tray once a day? Are the kittens going to be used to “House” noises such as the TV, the Radio, the door bell, people talking and walking past and every cats worst nightmare – THE VACUUM? I always have a bit of a giggle when people come and choose one chocolate male out of a litter that has 3 other chocolate male kittens purely because the kitten they have chosen is the most affectionate or the most playful or the quite one….. Healthy, well socialised Kittens are like people, they aren’t playful all the time and they certainly aren’t quite all the time. Chances are that the kitten that is the most playful during your visit may be the “quiet one” an hour later when someone else is visiting as he/she has worn himself out but by then another kitten will probably have taken over the “Playful” role. In general…If all the kittens in the litter are well socialized, happy to be held, healthy and playful and the breeder is ethical no matter what kitten you choose you will probably have a gorgeous natured kitten – as I said above … WHERE & HOW A KITTEN IS RAISED IS GOING TO MAKE THE LONG TERM DIFFERENCE! You don’t have to buy from the first breeder you talk to or see. You are likely to have a kitten for 14+ years so….Take your time, look around! You can always go back to that breeder if you think they were the best breeder with the healthiest, best natured animals. If you have to wait a few months well so be it. What is a few months in the scheme of things? A good breeder will give you lots of information to take home with you such as care sheets, diet recommendations and vet information, informing you when your kitten is due for its next vaccination etc. I would also expect a good breeder would ask you to give them a call should you have any problems or questions even when your cat is an adult. * * * * *A good responsible breeder should evaluate each kitten individually before confirming that the kitten is ready for a new home. This may mean 2 kittens from the same little will be ready to leave at different times.There are a number of developmental and health goals that need to be reached before going to a new home.? When choosing your kitten, try to make sure he/she is healthy and well cared for. At ten weeks of age, the kitten should have had at least one F3 vaccination and received at least 4 doses of dewormer. Also, look for the following traits: 1. Has the kitten reached an appropriate going home age? (eg about 11-12 weeks or older) 3. Is the kitten familiar with and eating a wide range of top quality vet recommend foods and foods suitable for human consumption?If you get a kitten that has been raised on only 1 type of food this may not be a brand that you can get hold of easily and may mean the kitten will be a fussy eater. Also what are you going to do if that brand is sold out or discontinued. 9. Bright Eyes with no pussy discharge. 10. Pink gums and correctly aligned teeth FOOD/DIET -A sign of a good breeder is one who uses top quality food to feed both the adults and kittens. Where possible the kittens should be raised on meat suitable for human consumption and a vet recommended brand of biscuit as the base diet. If the breeder is prepared to spend money on good quality food this is a good sign that the kitten is looked after in all areas of health and grooming. People often feel that the higher quality pet foods are too expensive but due to the top quality ingredients used in these brands you will find that your cat will actually eat less of these foods than regular supermarket varieties often resulting in a similar cost if not a small saving. This is because a good quality of food will fill them up quicker and give them the nutrients and all the dietary requirements they need. You should also find that your cat excretes less with less odour. It will also give your cat a shinier healthier coat, help keep the teeth clean and healthy and give your cat fresher breath. These brands of foods are also made to suit your ageing cat and cats with specific health requirements. Where possible your cat should be fed fresh meat (such as BBQ Chicken, minced lamb, diced beef, chicken necks and wings, brisket bones etc) throughout out their entire life. Meats suitable for human consumption are ideal! They don’t have the preservatives that the pet food meats have. These preservatives will have detrimental effects if used regularly. In the case of dry food – Your kitten should be on kitten food until it is about 10 months to one year old. It should then be weaned onto an adult food which it will remain on until it is 7 years old and should then be put onto a senior diet. Adult cats need much less and possibly even no dry food at all if they are fed on a good variety of meats suitable for human consumption/preservative free and have a healthy diet in general. Some of the dry food brands also attend to the needs of cats with specific health problems such as hairballs, dental care, sensitive stomaches and sensitive skin etc. There are also breed specific food on the market for dogs and cats. A good choice for an adult Burmese is Royal Canin or Science Diet. Other brands of dry food that you may like to use are Eagle Pack, Proplan, Eukanuba, Iams and Advance. Varying the brands is important.
Enjoy your new healthy kitten! Additional IMPORTANT info on this topic can also be found by clicking on the “Kittens under 10 weeks” article under the “FAQ’s” Menu. If you are interested in knowing the Code of Ethics that the NSW Cat Fanciers Association has put in place for all registered breeder you can read them below: CODE OF ETHICS. The NSW Cat Fanciers Association has issued a Code of Ethics as set out below: Each member shall :- Not mate or breed pedigreed cats unless the member becomes a breeder member by obtaining a Breeders Prefix issued by the association. The breeders prefix will be noted on the members membership card.Each Breeder member shall :-Not mate a female under 10 months of age nor overbreed a queen, ensuring that she has not more than 2 litters each 12 months. It is recommended that a queen not have more than 3 litters in any 24 month period. Ensure that a pedigreed cat is not mated to a pedigreed cat of another breed unless such mating is approved by the Association. Not sell or transfer a kitten under the age of 10 weeks, and vaccination must be commenced at least 14 days before the date on which the new owner takes possession of the kitten. It is recommended that the first vaccination be administered by a qualified Veterinary Practitioner. Ensure that before sale each kitten is fully weaned, healthy, vaccinated, microchipped and litter trained. Unless agreed otherwise by the breeder and purchaser, breeders shall accept reasonable financial responsibility for the health status of a kitten for 2 weeks after the date on which the new owner takes possession of the kitten. Provide all purchasers of cats and kittens with written details of all dietary, grooming, worming, and vaccination requirements. The pedigree and vaccination certificate are the birthright of the cat or kitten and must be given to the new owner. Information to contact appropriate breed clubs should also be supplied. Not sell cats or kittens to commercial cat wholesalers, nor to non PIAA accredited retail pet dealers, nor allow a cat or kitten to be given as a prize or donation to a contest of any kind.Ensure, when selling or transferring a cat or kitten to another person for breeding or showing, that all documents required by the NSW Cat Fanciers Association Procedures are provided to the purchaser or the transferee on completion of the sale. Ensure, when selling or transferring a cat or kitten to another person for breeding, that the new owner is a member of a recognised controlling body and has, or intends to have, an approved breeders prefix. Breed cats for the purpose of improving the standard of the breed and not primarily for the pet market. Suchi is a registered breeder with the New South Wales Cat Fanciers’ Association Incorporated. Lic No 125232.All information, photographs and graphics on this site are copyrighted 2004 by Catatonia. No warranty is proved for any omission, inaccuracy or otherwise of any of the data, information or opinions included in this site whatsoever. Independent professional advice is advised, particularly with concern to medical matters. |
Breeder of Award winning & genetically sound Burmese Cats